How to Build a Rain Barrel

!±8± How to Build a Rain Barrel

Building a rain barrel as shown on HGTV. Use a 55-gallon drum and the following parts from Lowes: 212957, 22690, 22681, 22682, 22034, 25010, 21516, 20992

How to Build a Rain Barrel

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Organizing Garden Sheds - Four Tips and Ideas For Easily Organizing a Garden Storage Shed

!±8± Organizing Garden Sheds - Four Tips and Ideas For Easily Organizing a Garden Storage Shed

If you're like many garden lovers, you tend to accumulate a lot of supplies for your hobby over the years. And this is why garden storage sheds can be so handy. Even if you don't have an outdoor shed large enough to use for a big greenhouse, you can still organize smaller sheds to make the most out of it for your gardening supplies and activities. So let's look at a few organizing tips.

1. Hang up tools. If your garden shed is small, you can get more out of the limited space you have by hanging items from the ceiling or walls. Hang your longer gardening tools such as rakes, shovels and hoes on the wall, then hang extra pots and containers from hooks in the ceiling.

2. Put in shelves. Having shelves in your garden shed will give you a small area to do everyday gardening maintenance such as re-potting plants, mixing compost into soil, and starting garden seeds. Try to have one shelf that's large enough to use for table top activities, then put in several more above which can be used for sitting smaller items on and keeping your garden magazines, books and journals organized.

3. Use storage bins. Storage bins are excellent organizers to use in a garden shed, because they come in a variety of sizes and can be used for a wide variety of things. Put storage bins under your small potting table for instance, to hold extra soil and compost. Store spring or fall bulbs in storage bins, and even store your plant stakes in small storage bins too.

4. Use planters for small storage. One of the things most garden lovers have is plenty of extra pots and containers. And even some of the smallest of these can be used to store a variety of things. Use the small starter plant containers to hold seed packets, organized by type. One could have vegetable seeds for instance, while another holds seeds for annual flowers, and a third holds perennial flower seeds. Alternatively you could group your seed packets together based on the soil and sunlight conditions needed for them to grow.

Larger pots and containers can hold small trowels and shovels, or mulch materials such as bark and sawdust. Some containers can even hold landscaping materials such as small stones.

Organizing Garden Sheds - Four Tips and Ideas For Easily Organizing a Garden Storage Shed

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How to Build a Flow-Through Worm Bin For Under $20

!±8± How to Build a Flow-Through Worm Bin For Under

There are many types of worm bins out there, both to purchase and to build. This article will provide step-by-step instructions about how to build a flow-through worm bin on a tight budget. Flow-through means that as the worms migrate upwards to eat more kitchen scraps you are able to harvest the worm castings from below without having to deal with the wigglers much. These types of composters are great for the squeamish, but are also practical for those of us who happen to love our little guys. A flow-through worm bin can provide easy harvesting, good drainage, and relatively good pest control. Here's how to do it.

What you'll need:
Rubbermaid type bin with lid, opaque (not see-through)
2 feet of window screening material (hardware store)
6-8 feet of nylon rope
Box cutter
Drill with bit about the same size as your rope
1 round of coconut coir or some peat moss
4 paper grocery bags
Staple gun or plastic-adhering glue

1. The first step in building a flow-through worm bin is to cut a large opening in the lid. Too little airflow in a worm bin results in condensation on the interior walls and wandering worms, so cutting a hole about 6"x12" will create a lot of breathing room for your little buddies. Using the box cutter, cut this air hole.

2. Double up the screening material so that the holes are overlapping in a way that makes them even smaller. I like to have one layer horizontal and put the other layer on diagonally. Either staple the screening material all around the edges of the hole you just cut in the lid, or use glue to make a good tight seal.

3. Drill the same number of holes in both the front and the back of the bin itself, about 6 inches up from the bottom. You will need 6-10 holes on each side, depending on how large your plastic bin is.

4. Thread the rope through the holes front to back as if you're threading shoelaces. You are creating the bottom screen of the bin by doing this, so make sure that the rope is good and tightly threaded. Tie a knot on the outside of the bin, finishing off the loop of rope.

5. Using the box cutter, cut a window beneath the area where the rope has been threaded. This window should be large enough for your hand to fit into, but also still leave a little room at the bottom of the bin so that any liquid collection will not seep out.

6. Moisten your grocery bags well. These will serve as a false bottom to your bin. After a time, the worms will eat these bags and turn them into castings as well. As the worms migrate upwards, the castings left along the bottom will be dense enough to support the rest of the system and the bags will no longer be needed.

7. Put in your worms and their bedding. Put them in a pile; they like to start off in a new home this way.

8. I highly recommend using either peat moss of coconut coir as bedding for worms. Both are great at retaining moisture and also provide a nice barrier that is difficult for flies to break through, preventing the laying of eggs. If you also want to incorporate paper bedding into your system, I recommend shredding it finely and using it in addition to the coir or peat.

Put a 1" layer of moistened coir or peat on top of the worms. Then put in your first feeding. Remember, no onions or citrus for worms! Then on top of the kitchen scraps, put a nice thick layer of coir or peat, at least 2-3". For good measure, sprinkle cinnamon on top of the whole thing. Cinnamon is a natural insecticide, which will deter winged demons even further. Put on the lid with the screen.

9. Leave the lights on. It can take worms several days to adjust to their new home, and leaving the lights on will encourage them to stay put in their dark surroundings within the bin. Once they get the idea and start eating, they won't wander.

A worm bin should not smell badly. If you experience unpleasant odors, delay feeding until the odors subside. You may need to add more worms or feed less frequently until your worm population increases.

In a month or two you will notice that the paper bags on the bottom of the bin have decomposed. You can now scrape along the bottom to release your first harvest of castings. If you start to see worms, then your harvesting is done. The worms will continue to move upwards towards the food as time passes, and continue to abandon the finished castings down below.

How to Build a Flow-Through Worm Bin For Under

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